MAYIN Guides

Blouse Measurements and Fitting: How to Get a Saree Blouse Stitched Right

By Nishita Nathani19 min read

Vintage Aqua blue and green floral print hand embroidered chiffon saree by MAYIN

To get a saree blouse stitched right, give your tailor a full set of body measurements taken over the bra you will wear, say whether the numbers are body or finished measurements, and ask for a trial fitting before the final stitching. Many blouse fitting problems, from a gaping neck to a band that rides up, trace back to one measurement that was missed, misread or taken too tight. This guide covers the complete measurement list with where the tape starts and ends, ease, shaping cuts, a brief and measurement card to copy, the trial, common faults and fixes, and notes for each MAYIN blouse piece.

At a glance
14Measurements on a complete tailor list, from shoulder to back neck depth
1 and 2Fingers under the tape: one at the armhole, two at the bust and arm rounds
1 to 2 inRoom many tailors add at the bust of a fitted, non-stretch blouse
1 mBlouse piece with our chiffon, mul modal and linen sarees
In this guide

One thing first: tailors work in different ways, and two good ones may ask for slightly different numbers. Treat every figure here as a starting point to talk through with yours.

Before You Measure: What to Wear and Bring

What to have ready
The bra you will wear under the blouse, or a light unpadded bra if the blouse will have sewn-in cups. Nothing bulky on top.
A soft tailor’s tape, not a metal one or one that has stretched with age.
A helper for the shoulder, back length and back neck; measuring your own back with raised arms changes the numbers.
A mirror, to see that the tape runs level across your back.
A thin ribbon tied around your ribcage where the blouse should end. Every length is measured down to it.
A blouse that fits you well, if you have one, and the saree with its blouse piece.

Stand naturally, arms relaxed, and breathe normally; do not hold your breath or pull your shoulders back. Keep the tape snug but not tight and level all the way round. Take each round twice, and a third time if the two readings differ. Note everything in inches, which many tailors in India work in; an inch is about 2.5 cm.

The Complete Blouse Measurement List

A readymade blouse needs only a few numbers; a blouse cut from a blouse piece needs the full set. Here is each one, with where the tape starts and stops. The finger rule keeps the rounds from reading too tight: one finger under the tape for the armhole, two for the bust and arm rounds.

Fourteen measurements for a tailored blouse
MeasurementTape starts and endsWhy it matters
ShoulderAcross the back, from the tip of one shoulder bone to the other, following the curveToo wide and the blouse slides; too narrow and it pulls
Blouse length, backFrom the highest point of the shoulder, beside the neck, straight down the back to the ribbonWhere the blouse ends at the back
Front lengthFrom the same shoulder point, over the fullest part of the bust, down to the ribbonToo short and the band rides up
Upper chestAround the chest above the bust, high under the armsAlso called high bust; shows how much shaping is needed
BustAround the fullest part, level across the back, two fingers under the tapeThe main round, where most ease goes
Underbust or waist at the hemAround the ribcage along the ribbonMany tailors call this the waist; it decides how the band holds. If your blouse ends lower than just under the bust, also give the underbust, just below the bust
Shoulder to apexFrom the high shoulder point down to the bust pointSets the height of dart points or cups
Apex to apexStraight across from one bust point to the otherSpaces the darts or cups
ArmholeAround the top of the arm and through the armpit, one finger under the tapeClose enough to move without lifting
Upper armAround the fullest part, arm relaxed, two fingers under the tapeAlso called sleeve round; stops a sleeve gripping
Sleeve lengthFrom the shoulder tip down the outside of the arm; to where you want the sleeve to end; bend the elbow slightly for longer sleevesMeasure your own arm, not a standard
Sleeve openingAround the arm where the sleeve ends, two fingers under the tapeLets the hem sit without biting
Front neck depthFrom where the neck meets the shoulder line, straight down to the depth you wantA style choice
Back neck depthFrom the same point, straight down the backKeep one side higher if the other is deep

For a long blouse that reaches the waist, add your natural waist round.

The apex point, and why the front is longer

The apex is the fullest point of the bust, measured over the bra you will wear. Tailors use it to place dart points and cups; when it is off, you see diagonal pulls or dart tips in the wrong place. The front length runs over the bust, so it is longer than the back. A front cut to the same length as the back tilts up at the hem, the usual reason a band rides up, and a bigger size will not cure it.

Neck depths and sleeve lengths are style more than fit: our guides to saree blouse neck designs and saree blouse sleeve designs give typical inches for each shape.

Body, Finished or Sample Blouse Measurements

Mixing up two kinds of numbers is a common reason a blouse comes back too loose or too tight. Body measurements are taken on you; finished measurements are taken on a blouse and already include room to move. Many local tailors want body measurements and add their own ease, while some online forms ask for finished sizes. Write at the top of your card which you are giving.

Two kinds of numbers
Body measurementsFinished measurements
Taken onYou, over the bra you will wearA blouse that fits, laid flat
EaseNot included; the tailor adds itAlready included; do not add more
Goes wrong whenThe tape is pulled tightThe sample is a stretch blouse

Giving a sample blouse

A blouse that already fits shows the shoulder, armhole and length on a real garment. Choose a woven, non-stretch one if you can; if it stretches, say so, since a woven blouse piece needs more room. Our readymade blouse guide shows how to measure one flat.

Using a sample blouse
1
Try it on firstWith the bra you will use; note what you like and what you would change.
2
Write each change in inches“Front half an inch longer”, “back neck an inch deeper”. A number cannot be misread the way “slightly” can.
3
Say what to keepUsually the shoulder and armhole, the hardest parts to change later.
4
Ask them not to unpick itA good tailor can measure a sample without opening its seams.

Ease, or Loosening: How Much Room to Ask For

Ease, which many tailors call loosening, is the room that lets you breathe, sit and lift your arms. There is no fixed standard; it depends on the tailor, the fabric and how close you like the fit. The fingers under your tape stop a tight reading but are not the full ease, so tell your tailor how you measured and the room is not added twice.

Where the room goes
WhereTypical roomNotes
BustMany tailors add roughly 1 to 2 inches for a fitted, non-stretch blouseLess for a close fit; more for a relaxed or lined one
Band under the bustLittle; it should be snugToo much room and it rides up or slides
ArmholeMeasured with one finger under the tapeClose to the body, so the blouse stays put when you move
Upper armAbout half an inch to an inch over the bicep, for a fitted sleeveWoven fabrics with no give, such as linen and tissue, need it most
LengthsNone; length is a style choiceGive the finished length you want

Ask your tailor how much they usually add. If you like a very close fit, say so and test it seated at the trial. MAYIN blouse pieces are woven (crepe, mul modal, linen and tissue), so plan for full ease rather than relying on any give; a stretch readymade blouse needs less.

Darts, Princess Cut or Katori, and Fit by Body

A blouse takes its shape over the bust in one of a few ways. Names and methods vary by region and tailor, so ask to see one they have made in the cut you want.

Four ways to shape the front
CutHow it shapesOften suits
DartsFolded wedges stitched towards the bust point, stopping a little short of itEveryday blouses; simple to adjust later
Princess cutLong seams from the shoulder or armhole over the bust to the hem, in place of dartsLonger and fitted blouses, crisp linen, a smooth front under a sheer pallu
Katori cutThe bust is cut as separate cup-shaped panels (katori means bowl), joined to a band belowA rounded, structured shape; it depends on accurate apex measurements
PaddedCups sewn between the outer fabric and the lining at your bust pointSewn-in cups replace a structured bra; under sheer chiffon choose soft cups or none, because moulded cups can show

A princess cut suits a fitted crepe blouse under a pure chiffon such as Noxana, or a crisp blouse from the linen piece of Main Event, but it uses more fabric, so let your tailor check the piece first. Darts are quick to alter and suit an everyday blouse from the running piece of Mauve Melody. Either way, let the tailor mark the points on you at the trial rather than working from a number.

With a fuller bust, support comes first: a firm band, enough front length and room over the bust rather than a bigger size all over. Our guide to blouse designs for a heavy bust covers it in depth.

Fit notes by body
Sloping shouldersA tailor can angle the outer end of the shoulder line to follow yours; strap holders help.
Broad shoulders or backAsk for enough back width; a narrow back pulls at the armholes and hooks.
Petite or short waistedKeep the lengths in proportion and check the dart points still sit at the right height for your bust point.
Long torsoA slightly longer blouse or a princess cut, with front length to match, if you like more cover.
Fuller armsGive the true upper arm round; a fitted elbow or three-quarter sleeve with ease is comfortable.
Smaller bustSoft padding or a katori cut adds shape; accurate apex numbers matter most.

Your Tailor Brief and Measurement Card

Hand a copy over with the blouse piece and keep one on your phone.

Measurement card for your tailor
Body or finished measurements: ______   Bra worn: ______   Date: ______
Shoulder, tip to tip across the back: ______ in
Blouse length, back: ______ in   Front length, over the bust: ______ in
Upper chest: ______ in   Bust, two fingers: ______ in
Underbust or waist at the hem: ______ in   Natural waist, for a long blouse: ______ in
Shoulder to apex: ______ in   Apex to apex: ______ in
Armhole, one finger: ______ in
Upper arm, two fingers: ______ in   Sleeve length: ______ in   Sleeve opening: ______ in
Front neck depth: ______ in   Back neck depth: ______ in
The brief: fill in and hand over
Blouse piece: ______ (fabric and length)
Fit: close, regular or relaxed   Shaping: darts, princess cut or katori
Front neck: shape, ______ in deep   Back neck: shape, ______ in deep
Sleeves: style, ______ in long
Opening: front hooks, back hooks or side zip; dori, yes or no
Lining: yes or no, colour ______   Padding: none or soft cups
Extras: strap holders; a small loop inside the shoulder for the pallu pin
Seam allowance: about an inch at the sides
Trial date: ______   Ready by: ______

An example brief

For Vintage Aqua, a blue and green floral print, hand embroidered chiffon saree that comes with a 1 m crepe blouse piece, a brief might read: “Body measurements attached, taken over the bra I will wear, with the finger rule. Regular fit, princess cut if the piece allows, otherwise darts; cotton lining, no padding. Round front about 6 inches deep, U back about 7. Elbow sleeves ending just above the elbow. Front hooks, strap holders and a loop inside the left shoulder for the pallu pin. About an inch of seam allowance. Trial fitting first, please.”

The Trial Fitting

A trial, or first fitting, is where most faults are still easy to fix, because the seams are only lightly stitched. Not every tailor offers one as standard, so ask when you hand over the piece. Bring the bra you will wear (or none, if the blouse has sewn-in cups) and the saree, with a petticoat if you can, so you can pin the pallu over the blouse.

Six things to do in the trial blouse
1
Stand at the mirrorShoulder seams sit on top of the shoulder, the neckline lies flat, the band runs level.
2
Lift both arms to shoulder heightIf the whole blouse rises, the armhole is too low or loose.
3
Sit, then lean forwardNothing gapes at the neck and no hook strains.
4
Reach across to the opposite shoulderThe back and underarm do not pull; it is the movement of pinning a pallu.
5
Breathe in deeplyThe band feels snug, not tight.
6
Ask for a photo of your backCheck the back neck, the hooks and any bulge or gap.

Ask the tailor to pin or chalk each change on you, and repeat it back so you agree.

Blouse Fitting Problems: Causes and Fixes

Most faults have one or two usual causes. Use this table at the trial, while everything is easy to change, or to explain a problem afterwards.

Common faults and what to ask for
You noticeUsual causeAsk the tailor to
Neckline gapesNeck cut too wide or deep for you, or the edge stretched in sewingTake in at the shoulder seams, or add a small tuck or stay tape at the edge
Shoulders slipA wide neckline, or front and back both deepNarrow the shoulders or add a back dori
Bra straps showNarrow blouse straps, or a bra that does not suit the necklineAdd strap holders; plan the bra with the neckline
Armhole cuts inArmhole too small, or cut too high at the frontRelease the side seam under the arm a little if there is margin; an armhole cannot be enlarged, so get it right at the trial
Blouse lifts with your armsArmhole too low or loose, or a tall sleeve capAt the trial: a closer, slightly higher armhole or an underarm gusset
Band rides upFront too short to go over the bustAdd front length, not a bigger size
Hooks gapeToo tight across the bust or ribcageAdd room over the bust through the darts or seams if there is margin; move hooks only if the strips overlap
Back bulges or gapesBack too wide, or back neck too deepTake in at the seams, or add a dori
Diagonal pulls at the bustToo little room at the bust, or dart points misplacedRecheck shoulder to apex and move the dart points
Loose under the bustBand cut too bigTake in the side seams or deepen the darts
Sleeves gripToo little ease at the bicep, or a tall sleeve capRelease the underarm seam if there is margin

Prevent two faults rather than fix them: a neckline cut too low cannot be raised, and a tight shoulder or armhole cannot be enlarged. For choosing the bra, see what to wear under a saree.

Fitting Notes for Each MAYIN Blouse Piece

Every MAYIN saree is 5.5 m long and 45 inches wide, and any blouse piece is extra. What comes with it depends on the fabric; our sarees with a blouse piece collection gathers the ones that include one.

What comes with each saree, and how to fit it
SareeComes withFitting notes
Pure chiffon: Elysia, Noxana, Azura, Juliet, Veyona, Fresh Bloom1 m crepe blouse pieceCrepe is smooth and soft, with a good fall; a cotton lining keeps the line neat under a sheer pallu. Soft cups or none. Dry clean, so do not pre-wash.
Chiffon: Vintage Aqua, Vintage Wine, Damask Rose, Frangipani1 m crepe blouse pieceThe same notes. Beside hand embroidered or hand painted work, a plain blouse lets the saree lead.
Mul modal: Mauve Melody, Cocoa, Moonlit Pearl, Dot Theory1 m running blouse pieceSoft like the saree; a cotton lining helps it hold shape. Cut it off first (below); pre-wash it if you will hand wash the blouse.
Handloom linen: Main Event, Composure1 m blouse pieceCrisp, so it suits a princess cut or a collar; keep the full ease at the bicep. A cotton lining helps it hold shape. Dry clean, so skip the pre-wash.
Cotton tissue: Miss EarthA blouse piece with most tissue sarees; see the product pageLine it, since tissue can scratch, and get the fit right at the trial, as needle holes can show. Dry clean only.
Mul cotton: After Dark, Twilight BloomNo blouse pieceChoose a blouse fabric of similar weight, or wear a blouse you own.

A 1 m blouse piece covers most short and elbow sleeve designs; full sleeves often need more unless you are a smaller size, so show your tailor the piece first. For lining, pre-washing and fabric for a mul cotton blouse, see our blouse fabric guide and blouse designs for plain cotton sarees.

Cutting off the running blouse piece

On a mul modal saree the blouse piece is woven in one length with the saree, usually at the end away from the pallu. Measure the piece first, so you know there is about 1 m past the line where the saree ends. Cut along that line on the blouse side, never into the saree, so it keeps its full 5.5 m, and have the cut end of the saree hemmed so it does not fray. Our blouse fabric guide has the steps.

Timing and Alterations After Stitching

Give your tailor time. Queues grow before festivals and in wedding season, when a blouse that usually takes a few days can take a week or two, sometimes longer.

A relaxed order of events
FirstMeasure and briefHand over the piece well ahead; earlier still in busy seasons.
ThenTrial fittingWith time for changes, and a second fitting if needed.
Before the dayFinal try-onWith the saree, a few days ahead, not on the morning itself.

What can still change after stitching

A finished blouse is far easier to take in than to let out. Side seams, hems, sleeves and hooks are the easy changes, and a dori can steady a slipping back; letting out depends on the margin inside the seams, so ask for about an inch at the sides. Shoulders and armholes cannot be enlarged, a deep neckline cannot be raised, and zari or embroidery at a seam makes any change hard. Our readymade blouse guide covers alterations in more detail.

Sarees With a Blouse Piece in This Guide

Shop sarees that come with a blouse piece
Vintage Aqua Blue and green floral print, hand embroidered chiffon saree by MAYINVintage AquaBlue and green floral print, hand embroidered chiffonPair with Green, ivory, goldVintage Wine Maroon floral print, hand embroidered chiffon saree by MAYINVintage WineMaroon floral print, hand embroidered chiffonPair with Maroon, gold, blackDamask Rose Pink floral hand painted chiffon saree by MAYINDamask RosePink floral hand painted chiffonPair with Pink, ivory, goldElysia Pink floral print pure chiffon saree by MAYINElysiaPink floral print pure chiffonPair with Pink, gold, ivoryNoxana Black floral print pure chiffon saree by MAYINNoxanaBlack floral print pure chiffonPair with Black, gold, rani pinkAzura Royal blue floral print pure chiffon saree by MAYINAzuraRoyal blue floral print pure chiffonPair with Royal blue, silver, ivoryFresh Bloom Peach gingham print pure chiffon saree by MAYINFresh BloomPeach gingham print pure chiffonPair with Peach, white, goldMauve Melody Plain pink mul modal saree by MAYINMauve MelodyPlain pink mul modalPair with Pink, maroon, goldCocoa Plain brown mul modal saree by MAYINCocoaPlain brown mul modalPair with Brown, ivory, goldMoonlit Pearl White polka dot mul modal saree by MAYINMoonlit PearlWhite polka dot mul modalPair with White, black, redMain Event Maroon handloom linen, zari border saree by MAYINMain EventMaroon handloom linen, zari borderPair with Maroon, gold, ivoryMiss Earth Yellow handloom cotton tissue with embroidery and zari saree by MAYINMiss EarthYellow handloom cotton tissue with embroidery and zariPair with Yellow, gold, maroon

Browse all sarees with a blouse piece, or shop by fabric: chiffon sarees, mul modal sarees, linen sarees and tissue sarees. Once the fit is planned, choose the style with saree blouse neck designs, sleeve designs and chiffon saree blouse designs.

Questions People Ask

How do I take blouse measurements at home?

Wear the bra you will wear, tie a ribbon where the blouse should end, and use a soft tape kept level and snug, with one finger under it at the armhole and two at the bust and arm rounds. Ask someone to help with the shoulder and back.

What measurements are needed for blouse stitching?

Fourteen for a full fit: shoulder, back length, front length, upper chest, bust, underbust, shoulder to apex, apex to apex, armhole, upper arm, sleeve length, sleeve opening, and front and back neck depth.

How do I measure my blouse size using an old blouse?

Lay a blouse that fits flat and fastened, and measure across the bust from armpit to armpit (doubled), shoulder seam to shoulder seam, and high shoulder point to hem. Tell the tailor these are finished measurements.

How much loosening should I give in a blouse?

There is no fixed figure. Many tailors add roughly 1 to 2 inches at the bust of a fitted, non-stretch blouse and about half an inch to an inch at the upper arm; ask yours.

What is the apex point in blouse measurement?

The fullest point of the bust. Tailors measure from the high shoulder point down to it, and from one apex to the other, to place darts and cups.

What is the difference between a princess cut and a katori blouse?

A princess cut shapes the front with long seams over the bust. A katori cut shapes the bust with separate cup-shaped panels joined to a band below, for a rounder, more structured shape.

Why does my blouse ride up when I lift my arms?

Usually the armhole is cut too low or loose. If the band rides up even when you stand still, the front is too short.

How do I fix a blouse that gapes at the neck?

A tailor can take in the shoulder seams or add a small tuck or stay tape at the edge. A neckline cut too deep cannot be raised.

How tight should a saree blouse be?

Snug enough that the band stays level and the hooks lie flat, with room to breathe deeply, sit and lift your arms without the blouse moving.

Can a tailor make a tight blouse bigger?

Only a little, and only if there is margin inside the side seams. Shoulders and armholes cannot be enlarged.

Keep reading

Vintage Green floral print hand embroidered chiffon saree by MAYIN Guide Bangles With a Saree: Glass, Lac, Metal and How to Pair Them Corner Office multicolour checked pure handloom linen saree by MAYIN Guide Crease Free Saree Care: Fabrics That Resist Creases and Easy Fixes Emerald green pure chiffon saree with hand embroidered gold sequin roses by MAYIN Guide Types of Silk Sarees in India: Silks, Weaves and How to Choose
All guides