MAYIN Guides

Onam Saree Guide: How to Wear a Kerala Kasavu Saree

Kamakshi white mul cotton saree with red border and gold zari by MAYIN

For Onam, wear a Kerala kasavu saree: an off-white or cream cotton saree with a gold zari border, worn with a red, green, maroon or gold blouse, jasmine in your hair and a little gold jewellery. If you prefer the older two-piece style, the set mundu (mundum neriyathum) gives the same look in two lengths of cloth, and if you want colour, a green, mustard or maroon saree with a zari border is perfectly welcome. This guide covers the 2027 dates, kasavu vs set saree vs set mundu, the GI weaving centres, real and tested zari, blouses, jewellery, the drape, office Onam and care.

At a glance
CreamThe body
Kasavu goldKasavu border
RedFavourite blouse
GreenPopular blouse
MaroonRich blouse
JasmineIn the hair
Cream and gold first, then a blouse colour that carries the look.
In this guide

Onam 2027 Dates and What Each Day Asks of You

Onam is Kerala’s harvest festival, celebrated in the Malayalam month of Chingam and, according to legend, marking the yearly homecoming of King Mahabali. It runs for ten days, from Atham to Thiruvonam. In 2027, Thiruvonam falls on Sunday 12 September in most Kerala calendars, and Atham about ten days earlier, on Friday 3 September.

Onam 2027 at a glance
Fri 3 SepAthamDay one; the first small pookalam is laid at the doorstep
4 to 10 SepChithira to PooradamThe pookalam grows ring by ring; office and college celebrations
Sat 11 SepUthradamFirst Onam: last shopping, cooking for the sadya
Sun 12 SepThiruvonamThe main day: new clothes, the big pookalam, the sadya
13 to 15 SepAvittam, ChathayamCelebrations continue in many homes
Good to know
One panchang lists Thiruvonam on Monday 13 September 2027; the Thiruvonam star runs from the early hours of the 12th until about 6 am on the 13th, so calendars can differ. Most calendars, including those for Kochi, give Sunday 12 September. Check the Kerala government’s 2027 holiday list or your local calendar before you book leave.

What you wear changes over the ten days. Atham and the days after are ordinary working days for most people, so this is when offices, colleges and housing societies hold their celebrations, often in a working week before Thiruvonam. Uthradam is busy and practical. Thiruvonam is the day for your best saree: in many families everyone wears new clothes, often a gift from the elders, and the morning begins with the pookalam and ends with a long lunch. If you have an office Onam too, a lighter cream saree for work and your best kasavu for Thiruvonam is a sensible split.

Kasavu Saree, Set Saree and Set Mundu: What Each One Is

These three names are used loosely, and shops do not always agree, so here is how we use them. Kasavu is the Malayalam word for zari, the gold border; any Kerala garment with that border can be called kasavu. The two-piece original is the mundum neriyathum, also called the set mundu or settu mundu. The one-piece version, draped like any other saree, is what most people now mean by a Kerala saree, a kasavu saree or a set saree.

Two ways to wear the same look
Kasavu saree (set saree)Set mundu (mundum neriyathum)
PiecesOne length of about 5.5 metresTwo pieces: the mundu for the waist, the neriyathu for the upper body
DrapeNivi style, with pleats and a palluMundu wrapped at the waist; neriyathu tucked into the blouse or worn over the left shoulder
LookThe same cream body and gold borderThe older, more traditional silhouette
EaseFamiliar if you already wear sareesQuicker for some, but needs practice to stay in place
Best forFirst Onam, office, photos, anyone new to Kerala dressTemple visits, family Thiruvonam, those who grew up wearing it

A few related words you will see: a kasavu mundu is the single white mundu with a gold border that men wear with a shirt; a Kerala half saree or dhavani set is a long skirt, blouse and half-length drape that many girls and young women wear for Onam.

MAYIN’s own Kerala kasavu sarees are sold out at the moment, and the range returns before Onam 2027. Until then, the cream, ivory and zari-bordered sarees later in this guide give a similar look; they are alternatives, not kasavu.

Where Kasavu Is Woven: The GI-Registered Centres

A Geographical Indication (GI) protects the name of a product that comes from a particular place. Several Kerala weaving traditions are registered on India’s GI registry, and they are worth knowing because the names are often used loosely in listings.

Kerala weaving GIs
Registered name and placeWhat to know
Balaramapuram Sarees and Fine Cotton FabricsNear ThiruvananthapuramWeaving here dates to around 1800, when weaver families were brought from Tamil Nadu under the Travancore court. Traditionally woven on throw-shuttle pit looms, with the design the same on both faces.
Kuthampully Sarees and Fine Cotton FabricsThiruvilwamala, ThrissurWeavers originally from Karnataka settled here under the Cochin royal family; known for borders with woven figures such as Kathakali faces and Krishna.
Kuthampully Dhoties and Set MunduThiruvilwamala, ThrissurA second, separate registration for the village’s dhotis and set mundu.
Chendamangalam Dhoties and Set MunduNear KochiLinked to the Paliam family; look for the puliyilakara, a fine dark line beside the selvedge. The weavers rebuilt after the 2018 floods.
Kasaragod SareesKasaragod, north KeralaA GI saree, but not a kasavu: these are coloured cotton sarees with plain or striped bodies in dyed yarn.

A GI name belongs to the registered weavers of that place, so a saree woven elsewhere should not carry it. If provenance matters to you, buy from weavers’ cooperatives or sellers who name the centre and show a GI or handloom label, and keep the label with the saree. Our handloom saree guide explains handloom marks in general.

The Go to ivory pure handloom linen saree with a zari border by MAYIN, an Onam alternative to kasavu

Real Zari, Tested Zari and What a Kasavu Costs

The gold border is what you pay for, so it helps to know what it is made of. Three kinds of zari are in use, and the words on the label do not always tell you which you are buying.

Three kinds of zari
TypeMade ofIn practice
Real zariSilver alloy wire, flattened, wound on a thread core and plated with goldKept for premium and heirloom pieces. It can darken with age as the silver oxidises.
Tested zariA trade name for imitation zari: copper-based wire plated in silver and gold colour, with little or no precious metalThe usual border on festive kasavu today, sometimes called half-fine zari. Labels such as 1G or 2G do not prove gold content.
Metallic zariSlit metallised filmDoes not tarnish and has a brighter, flatter shine. Common on lower-priced pieces.

Tested zari is not a cheat; it is what makes a festive kasavu affordable. What matters is that the seller tells you which zari you are getting. Sellers sometimes suggest home checks, such as rubbing the zari on a coin or looking at the colour of the core thread, but these are folk tests, not proof. Only a lab can say how much silver or gold a border holds, and you should never burn a thread to test it.

Signs of a handwoven kasavu
The body is a warm ivory or cream, not an optical white; handwoven kasavu traditionally uses unbleached yarn.
The reverse looks nearly as neat as the front, especially at the border.
The weave feels dense and drapes with some weight, with a soft finish rather than a stiff, heavily starched one.
There are small irregularities at the selvedge, which a machine does not make.
A handloom mark or GI label is attached, and the seller can name the weaving centre.

Price follows four things: handloom or powerloom, the fineness of the cotton (finer counts cost more), the width of the border, and the kind of zari. Borders range from under an inch to six inches or more.

How price climbs
Entry
Powerloom cotton, narrow metallic borderFine for a single office celebration or a first try; the body may be an optical white.
Mid
Powerloom or handloom cotton, tested zariThe everyday festive kasavu: a medium border, a cream body, good in photos.
Higher
Handloom from a known centre, finer cottonWider borders, softer hand, often with a GI or handloom label.
Heirloom
Fine handloom with real zariWide or figured borders; bought once and kept for years.

Border Colours and Coloured Sarees for Onam

The classic kasavu is cream with gold and nothing else. Weavers have added colour too, from thin stripes beside the zari to whole coloured borders, and newer pieces play with the body. All of these are worn for Onam today.

The kasavu family
Classic
Cream body
Gold border
Copper zari
Gold with a colour stripe
Red
Green
Orange
Mustard
Maroon
Newer variations
Tissue body
Mural motifs
Black set saree
Linen body
Variations you will see
Tissue kasavuZari runs through the body as well as the border, so the whole saree shimmers. Good for evening or a first Onam after marriage.
Mural kasavuKerala mural motifs such as Krishna and peacocks, printed or painted on the body or pallu.
Black set sareeBlack with a gold border is a striking modern look, more often seen at parties and college Onam than at a family Thiruvonam.
Copper zariA warmer, softer metallic that looks quieter than bright gold and pairs well with maroon and mustard.

Can you wear a coloured saree for Onam?

Yes. Cream and gold is the custom, not a rule, and green, mustard, maroon and red are all at home at an Onam lunch. Choose a colour that already lives in the kasavu palette and add a zari border or zari stripes so it still reads as festive. Saaz and Emerald are green mul cotton sarees with zari stripes; Manjari is the same weave in red. For a heavier drape, Golden Hour (mustard) and Main Event (burgundy) are pure handloom linen with a zari border at ₹4,299, each with a 1 metre blouse piece. All five are dry clean only because of the zari.

If you would rather stay close to the classic look without a kasavu, start with cream, ivory or beige and a gold border or stripe. The Go to is ivory pure handloom linen with a zari border, and Beige is the same in a warm beige; both suit the office Onam as much as Thiruvonam lunch. Kamakshi is white mul cotton with a red border and gold zari at ₹1,799, and the striped Beige mul cotton has fine zari stripes at ₹2,099. These give you cream and gold; they are alternatives, not kasavu. See more in white sarees and zari sarees.

Blouse Colours and Designs

With a cream and gold saree, the blouse is where the colour and the personality go. Traditionally the blouse matched the border, so a gold or cream blouse is the oldest choice. Red, green and maroon are the favourites today, with mustard and gold close behind. In some families, tradition has unmarried girls in green and married women in red; most people now simply choose what suits them.

Blouse colours by saree
SareePopularFreshEvening
Cream, gold borderRed, maroonGreen, peacock greenGold
Gold with a red stripeRedMustardGold, maroon
Gold with a green borderGreenMustardGold
Tissue kasavuMaroonEmeraldGold
Ivory linen, zariMaroonBottle greenGold
Repeat a colour that is already in the border, or choose gold to stay closest to tradition.

Kerala saree blouse designs

Six blouse designs that suit a kasavu
Elbow sleeves
Red, kasavu gold
The most popular Onam cut: comfortable at a sadya, and it frames gold bangles. Add a thin zari trim at the hem.
Puff sleeves
Green, kasavu gold
Younger and playful; suits the half saree and college Onam.
Boat neck
Maroon, kasavu gold
Clean and modern; shows off a necklace on the collarbone.
High neck with buttons
Mustard, gold
Gold buttons echo the zari; good if you want little jewellery.
Mural or painted blouse
Peacock green, cream
A Kerala mural motif on the blouse gives a plain kasavu the newer mural look.
Deep back with tassels
Red, gold
A U or keyhole back with latkans for evening and photos.

Check whether your kasavu comes with a blouse piece before you plan the blouse; a contrast colour usually means buying blouse fabric separately. Of the alternatives in this guide, our linen sarees come with a 1 metre blouse piece, most of our tissue sarees, including Miss Earth, come with a blouse piece (check the product page), and mul cotton sarees come without one. For more, read our guides to a blouse for a white saree, saree blouse neck designs, blouse sleeve designs and blouse ideas by colour.

Kerala Jewellery, Jasmine and Six Looks

Kerala jewellery is mostly yellow gold, often with green and red stones, and it sits beautifully against cream cloth. You do not need all of it; one necklace, jimikki earrings and bangles are plenty for Thiruvonam.

The Onam finish
Kasu malaRows of small gold coins, often stamped with a Lakshmi motif. The best-known Onam necklace.
Palakka malaA gold necklace set with green leaf-shaped pieces, which picks up a green blouse beautifully.
NagapadamA pendant shaped like a cobra’s hood, set with red or green stones.
Mullamottu malaA chain of gold links shaped like jasmine buds; lighter and good for daytime.
JimikkiKerala’s bell-shaped jhumka with dangling beads. One pair carries the whole look.
Temple jewelleryWidely worn with kasavu; a single temple necklace is enough with a wide border.
JasmineStrings of mullappoo in a low bun or along a braid. Buy it fresh that morning.
FeetFlat sandals or juttis; you will sit on the floor for the sadya and stand for the pookalam.
Six Onam looks
Thiruvonam at home
SareeCream kasavu, gold border
BlouseRed, elbow sleeves
JewelleryGold kasu mala, jimikki
HairJasmine in a low bun
A newly-wed’s first Onam
SareeChampagne tissue kasavu
BlouseMaroon, deep back
JewelleryGold palakka mala
HairJasmine and a small bindi
Office Onam
SareeThe Go to, ivory linen
BlouseBottle green, elbow sleeves
JewelleryGold jimikki only
FootwearTan flats
College or society Onam
SareeKamakshi, white, red border, zari
BlouseGreen puff sleeves
JewelleryGold mullamottu chain
HairJasmine braid
Colour instead of cream
SareeSaaz, green with zari stripes
BlouseGold
JewelleryGold temple necklace
FootwearGold juttis
Onam dinner
SareeMiss Earth, yellow tissue
BlouseMaroon
JewelleryGold nagapadam
HairJasmine bun

Draping a Kerala Saree

A one-piece kasavu is draped in the usual nivi style. The only real difference is the border: you want the gold border to sit level along the hem of your pleats and run cleanly along the edge of the pallu, because that line is the whole look.

The one-piece drape
1
Start with the right petticoatMatch the petticoat to the saree where you can; a cream body is light, and if you have no match, nude usually shows less than white.
2
Tuck and wrap onceTuck the plain end in at the right of your waist and take one full turn round, keeping the bottom border just off the floor.
3
Make the pleatsMake five to seven pleats, keeping the lower gold border level so the folds line up in one clean band of gold at the hem. Tuck the pleats in at the navel, facing left.
4
Set the palluTake the pallu over the left shoulder with the wide border along its outer edge, pleated narrow or left open, and pin it at the shoulder.
5
Pre-pleat the night beforeStarched handwoven cotton and zari sarees hold pleats well if you fold and pin them the night before; do not stitch them. Pinning saves ten minutes on Thiruvonam morning.

For the two-piece set mundu, the mundu is wrapped round the waist and tucked in like a long skirt. The neriyathu is the upper piece: traditionally its end is tucked into the blouse, and today most women take it over the left shoulder like a pallu. If you are new to Kerala dress, a one-piece kasavu, pre-pleated the night before as our pre-draped saree guide explains, is easier to manage through a long day. More draping help in saree draping styles and our petticoat guide.

Onam at the Office and Outside Kerala

Onam is celebrated far beyond Kerala, in offices, colleges and housing societies from Bengaluru and Chennai to Mumbai, Delhi and the Gulf, and you do not need to be Malayali to wear a kasavu; you will be welcomed in one. An office Onam usually means a pookalam contest, a catered sadya and games, all on a working day with a commute either side, so plan for a long day.

An office Onam, start to finish
MomentWhat happensWhat helps
The commuteTrains, cabs, stairs, sometimes rainCarry the saree and change at work, or choose a lighter fabric and pin the pleats and pallu.
Pookalam contestKneeling on the floor with fresh petalsFlowers and leaves stain cream cloth. Wear an old dupatta as an apron, or lay the pookalam before you change.
The sadyaA vegetarian feast on a banana leaf, eaten with the right hand, often seated on the floorPin the pallu out of the way and put a napkin on your lap; sambar, rasam and payasam all show on cream.
Games and photosGroup photos, games, dancesElbow sleeves, flat shoes and a firmly pinned pallu.

Outside Kerala, September weather is the bigger question: it can still be wet in Mumbai and Bengaluru and humid in Delhi, and the Gulf is hot. A light cream cotton is often more comfortable than a stiffly starched handloom. Kamakshi gives you white, red and gold zari in mul cotton, Bright Side (white with a yellow border) and Devi (white with gold and red detailing) are mul cotton you can hand wash after the sadya, and The Go to in ivory linen looks polished from the meeting room to the lunch. See office wear sarees and our work wardrobe guide. We offer free shipping across India and also ship internationally, which helps if you are celebrating Onam abroad.

Washing, Starching and Storing

A good kasavu lasts for years if you look after the cotton and the zari. Dry cleaning is the safest choice for any zari border, and it is what we advise for all our zari sarees. Many Kerala families still wash and starch cotton kasavu at home with rice kanji; if you like that crisp finish, ask your dry cleaner for a light starch instead. What you can do at home is the care between cleans.

Caring for a kasavu between cleans
1
Act on spills the same dayLift off food with a blunt knife and blot; do not rub, and do not wet the zari. Take the saree to the dry cleaner soon and tell them it is food with turmeric and oil.
2
Air it in the shadeAfter wearing, air the saree for a few hours out of strong sun, which can yellow cream cotton, before you fold it.
3
Iron from the reversePress on a medium setting and iron the zari from the back through a cotton cloth.
4
Store in cotton, not plasticWrap the saree in a cotton or muslin cloth and refold it every few months so the creases do not set along the zari.
Storing zari
Do
✓Keep naphthalene wrapped in paper, never touching the saree
✓Air the saree for a few hours before putting it away
✓Tell the dry cleaner it is zari
Avoid
✕Hot water and bleach
✕Spraying perfume on the zari
✕Leaving heavy starch in for months, which can attract silverfish

Among our alternatives, the plain mul cotton sarees such as Bright Side and Devi take a gentle cold hand wash; Kamakshi and the zari-striped mul cotton sarees, the linen, and the tissue are dry clean only. For the full routine see how to wash cotton, chiffon and linen sarees, and for turmeric on plain mul cotton, our haldi saree guide.

Onam Sarees in This Guide

MAYIN’s Kerala kasavu sarees return before Onam 2027. These in-stock sarees are not kasavu, but each gives you cream, ivory or gold, or an Onam colour with zari.

Shop Onam alternatives
The Go to Ivory handloom linen, zari border saree by MAYINThe Go toIvory handloom linen, zari borderPair with Bottle green, maroon, goldBeige Beige handloom linen, zari border saree by MAYINBeigeBeige handloom linen, zari borderPair with Maroon, green, goldKamakshi White mul cotton, red border, gold zari saree by MAYINKamakshiWhite mul cotton, red border, gold zariPair with Red, green, goldBeige Beige mul cotton, zari stripes saree by MAYINBeigeBeige mul cotton, zari stripesPair with Maroon, green, goldBright Side White mul cotton, yellow border saree by MAYINBright SideWhite mul cotton, yellow borderPair with Mustard, green, redDevi White mul cotton, gold and red detailing saree by MAYINDeviWhite mul cotton, gold and red detailingPair with Red, gold, greenRangam White striped mul cotton saree by MAYINRangamWhite striped mul cottonPair with Red, mustard, greenMiss Earth Yellow handloom cotton tissue, embroidery and zari saree by MAYINMiss EarthYellow handloom cotton tissue, embroidery and zariPair with Maroon, gold, greenGolden Hour Mustard handloom linen, zari border saree by MAYINGolden HourMustard handloom linen, zari borderPair with Bottle green, maroon, goldMain Event Burgundy handloom linen, zari border saree by MAYINMain EventBurgundy handloom linen, zari borderPair with Gold, bottle green, ivorySaaz Green mul cotton, zari stripes saree by MAYINSaazGreen mul cotton, zari stripesPair with Gold, maroon, creamEmerald Green mul cotton, zari stripes saree by MAYINEmeraldGreen mul cotton, zari stripesPair with Gold, mustard, maroonManjari Red mul cotton, zari stripes saree by MAYINManjariRed mul cotton, zari stripesPair with Gold, bottle green, cream

Our Kerala kasavu sarees return before Onam 2027; in the meantime, browse white cotton sarees, border sarees, linen sarees and festive wear sarees. For other festivals, read our pooja saree guide and Durga Puja saree guide, and for the fabric behind the linen picks, what is a linen saree.

Questions People Ask

When is Onam in 2027?

Thiruvonam, the main day, is on Sunday 12 September 2027 in most Kerala calendars, with Atham on Friday 3 September. One panchang gives Monday 13 September, so check the Kerala government holiday list or your local calendar.

What is the difference between a kasavu saree and a set mundu?

A kasavu saree is one 5.5 metre piece draped like any saree. A set mundu, or mundum neriyathum, is two pieces: a mundu wrapped at the waist and a neriyathu for the upper body.

Is a set saree the same as a Kerala saree?

In most shops, yes: “set saree” means the one-piece Kerala saree that copies the look of the two-piece set mundu. Ask the seller if you are unsure which you are buying.

Which blouse colour is best for a kasavu saree?

Red, green, maroon and gold are the classics. Repeat a colour from the border, or choose gold to stay closest to tradition.

Is the gold border on a kasavu real gold?

Usually not. Most festive kasavu uses tested zari, an imitation zari with little or no precious metal; real zari is silver plated with gold and is kept for premium pieces.

How do I identify an original handloom kasavu?

Look for a warm ivory body, a neat reverse, small irregularities at the selvedge and a handloom or GI label, and buy from a seller who names the weaving centre.

Which Kerala sarees have a GI tag?

Balaramapuram, Kuthampully and Kasaragod sarees are GI-registered, as are Chendamangalam and Kuthampully dhotis and set mundu. Kasaragod sarees are coloured cotton, not kasavu.

Can non-Malayalis wear a Kerala saree for Onam?

Yes. Friends, colleagues and neighbours wearing kasavu to an Onam celebration is common and welcome.

What jewellery goes with a Kerala saree?

Yellow gold: a kasu mala or palakka mala, jimikki earrings and bangles, with jasmine in the hair.

How do I wash and starch a kasavu saree?

Dry clean it: that is the safest care for any zari border, and you can ask the cleaner for a light starch. At home, blot spills straight away, air it in the shade, iron the zari from the reverse through a cloth and store it in cotton.

All guides