Saree Draping Styles: 12 Ways to Drape a 5.5 Metre Saree

There are far more ways to drape a saree than most of us use. The textile historian Rta Kapur Chishti documented 108 of them across India in her book Saris: Tradition and Beyond. You do not need all 108. With one 5.5 metre saree you can wear at least twelve distinct drapes, from the everyday nivi to the Bengali, Gujarati and Coorg styles, the butterfly and Mumtaz drapes for parties, and modern pant, belted and lehenga styles. This guide gives step-by-step instructions for each, which fabric suits which drape, what fits a 5.5 metre length, how many pins you need, and the questions people ask.

Before You Start

If you are new to sarees, start with our step-by-step guide on how to drape a mul cotton saree, and read the saree petticoat guide for the right base.

What Works With a 5.5 Metre Saree

MAYIN sarees are 5.5 metres long and about 45 inches wide, or 47 inches for linen. That is the standard length for modern drapes. A few regional drapes were made for longer sarees and need adapting, and two cannot be done at all.

Which Fabric Suits Which Drape

Chiffon and modal fall close to the body, which makes them ideal for the butterfly and Mumtaz drapes. Crisp cotton, linen, jamdani and tissue hold the Bengali, Gujarati and Coorg drapes and stand up well to belts. More in what is a chiffon saree and what is a linen saree.

1. Nivi

The nivi drape, from Andhra Pradesh, is the most worn drape in India and the base for most modern styles. It suits every fabric, every occasion and every body.

• Tuck the plain end into the petticoat just right of the navel and wrap once round the waist, anticlockwise, until you are back in front.
• Make five to seven pleats about five inches wide, hold them together facing left, and tuck them in at the navel.
• Take the rest round the back once more, under the right arm, and up over the left shoulder.
• Pleat the pallu, set its length between hip and knee, and pin it at the shoulder.
• Pin the pleats once inside so they hold.

2. Open Pallu

Exactly like the nivi, but the pallu is left unpleated and spread, pinned only at the shoulder. It shows off a printed or woven pallu, which makes it the natural choice for floral chiffons such as Selene and Elysia, and for jamdani such as Naples.

• Drape as for the nivi up to the point where the pallu goes over the shoulder.
• Spread the pallu fully, fold a small pleat at the shoulder only and pin it there.
• Let the pallu fall over the left arm, or bring the end forward and hold it in the crook of the arm.

3. Butterfly

A party drape where the pallu is pleated very thin, so it falls like a ribbon and shows the blouse and waist. It needs a fluid fabric; pure chiffon is ideal.

• Tuck and pleat as for the nivi, with the pleats tucked a little lower, just below the navel.
• Make the pallu pleats very narrow, about an inch wide, and pin them tightly at the shoulder.
• Let the pallu fall straight down the back to the knee.
• Pin the pallu once more at the waist at the back so it does not swing.

4. Bengali

The athpourey drape of Bengal has few or no front pleats and a long pallu brought round to the front over the right shoulder, traditionally weighted with a bunch of keys. It is the drape for Durga Puja and looks best in crisp cotton, jamdani and linen.

• Tuck the plain end at the right hip and wrap once round the waist. Skip the front pleats, or make three or four wide, loose folds.
• Make long pleats in the pallu and place it over the left shoulder, longer than in the nivi.
• Take the pallu end from behind, under the right arm, and lift it over the right shoulder or rest it on the arm.
• Tie a key bunch to the end, or pin a brooch.

See our Durga Puja saree guide for the full Pujo look.

5. Gujarati

In the seedha pallu drape of Gujarat and Rajasthan, the pallu comes over the right shoulder and is spread across the front to show its design. It suits woven pallus and borders, and is popular for weddings and garba.

• Tuck the plain end and wrap once round the waist, then make and tuck the pleats as for the nivi, facing left.
• Take the rest round the back and bring the pallu forward over the right shoulder.
• Spread the pallu across the chest so the design shows, and tuck its lower left corner at the left waist.
• Pin at the right shoulder and at the left hip.

6. Coorg

The Kodava drape of Coorg in Karnataka puts the pleats at the back and brings the pallu over the right shoulder, where it is traditionally knotted. The formal version uses about 6.5 metres; with 5.5 metres, keep the pallu shorter. Crisp cotton and linen hold it best.

• Tuck the plain end at the right waist and take the saree round anticlockwise to the centre back.
• Make about six pleats and tuck them in at the centre back, then fan them out.
• Bring the remaining fabric round to the front, across the chest and over the right shoulder.
• Bring a corner of the pallu forward over the right shoulder and knot it with the top edge of the drape, or pin it.

7. Mumtaz

Named after the actor Mumtaz and her famous orange saree of the late 1960s, this drape wraps the saree tightly round the hips with no front pleats, for a sleek mermaid line. Chiffon and modal suit it best.

• Tuck the plain end at the right of the navel and wrap the saree firmly round the hips, tucking as you go.
• Wrap a second time, slightly higher, keeping the wrap tight and smooth; skip the pleats.
• Take the rest over the left shoulder as a pleated pallu and pin.
• Wear heels; the hem should be just above the floor.

8. Lehenga Style

Pleats tucked all round the waist make the lower half look like a lehenga, with the pallu worn like a dupatta. Wear it over a flared petticoat. It suits chiffon, mul cotton and tissue, and is a favourite for sangeet and mehendi.

• Starting at the right hip, make small pleats along the top edge and tuck them in all round the waist, working towards the left.
• Use about three metres this way; you will finish near the left hip.
• Bring the remaining fabric across the front and over the left shoulder.
• Spread the pallu like a dupatta and pin at the shoulder and the waist.

9. Pant or Dhoti Style

Worn over slim trousers, leggings or dhoti pants instead of a petticoat, this drape is easy to walk, dance and sit in, and gives the line of a nauvari without nine yards. Linen and mul cotton suit it.

• Put on the trousers and tuck the plain end at the waist; wrap once round.
• Make the pleats and tuck them at the right hip, so the trousers show as you walk.
• Take the rest over the left shoulder as a pallu.
• Add a belt to hold the pallu at the waist.

10. Belted

Any drape above, usually the nivi or open pallu, with a belt over the pallu at the waist. The belt holds everything in place and defines the waist. Try a leather or metal belt with handloom linen for the office, a kamarband with zari for festivals, or a slim chain belt with chiffon for parties.

• Drape a nivi or open pallu.
• Bring the pallu down across the front and spread it.
• Fasten the belt at the natural waist over the pallu and pleats.
• Adjust the pallu so it blouses slightly over the belt.

11. Pallu Round the Neck

A modern, practical drape in which the pallu wraps round the neck like a stole. It keeps the pallu out of the way and adds warmth in winter.

• Drape a nivi and leave the pallu open and long.
• Bring the pallu from behind the left shoulder round the back of the neck.
• Let the end fall over the right shoulder to the front, or loop it once more.
• Pin at the left shoulder and at the back of the neck.

12. With a Jacket

A nivi or open pallu drape with a cropped jacket, blazer or long cardigan on top. It is the easiest winter and office look, and it holds the pallu in place. See winter saree looks for ideas.

• Drape a nivi with a pleated pallu pinned at the shoulder.
• Keep the pallu shorter, just below the hip, so it does not hang below the jacket.
• Choose a jacket that ends at the waist or one that is long and open.

Drapes by Occasion

To keep any of these drapes in place all day, see our guide on how to pin a saree: how many pins to use, where they go and which pins suit each fabric.

Sarees in This Guide

Shop sarees for every drape

JulietMauve floral print pure chiffonPair with SeleneTurquoise floral print pure chiffonPair with ElysiaPink floral print pure chiffonPair with SolenneLavender floral print pure chiffonPair with After DarkPlain black mul cottonPair with Cobalt CrumblePlain royal blue mul cottonPair with Mauve MelodyPlain pink mul modalPair with True GarnetPlain maroon mul modalPair with TokyoMulticolour striped mul cottonPair with NaplesYellow floral Dhakai jamdaniPair with CalmLavender handloom linen, zari borderPair with Line ItemBlack striped handloom linenPair with TariniPurple cotton tissuePair with Blue De FranceBlue mul cotton, gold sequinsPair with

Browse chiffon sarees, cotton sarees, linen sarees and party wear sarees. For styling a party look, see the party wear saree styling guide.

Short on time? Our pre-draped and ready to wear saree guide shows how to pre-pleat any saree, and how to drape a chiffon saree covers fluid fabrics.

Questions People Ask

How many ways can you drape a saree?

Textile historian Rta Kapur Chishti documented 108 drapes across India. With a standard 5.5 metre saree you can comfortably wear a dozen, including the nivi, Bengali, Gujarati, Coorg, butterfly, Mumtaz, lehenga, pant and belted styles.

What is the easiest saree drape for beginners?

The nivi. Tuck, wrap once, make five to seven pleats, take the pallu over the left shoulder and pin. Start with a mul cotton saree, which holds pleats and does not slip.

Which saree drape makes you look slimmer?

A nivi with a pleated pallu pinned long down the front creates a vertical line. The butterfly and Mumtaz drapes skim the body and suit those who want a sleek silhouette.

Can I do a Bengali drape with a 5.5 metre saree?

Yes. The pallu is a little shorter than with a longer saree but the drape works well, especially in crisp cotton or jamdani.

Can I drape a nauvari or madisar with a normal saree?

Not properly. Both need a nine yard saree, about 8.2 metres. For a similar line, try the pant or dhoti drape.

How many safety pins do I need?

At least three for cotton and linen: one at the shoulder, one inside the pleats and one at the waist. Use five to seven for chiffon, which slips more.

Which drape is best for chiffon?

Nivi, open pallu, butterfly and Mumtaz. Chiffon is too soft for the Bengali and Coorg drapes, which need a crisp fabric.

How do I keep pleats in place all day?

Iron the saree first, pin the pleats together inside, tie the petticoat firmly, and tuck the pleats deep enough. Mul cotton and linen hold pleats best.

Which drape is best for the office?

A neat nivi with a pinned pallu, a belted drape, or a nivi with a jacket. All keep the pallu out of the way at a desk.