Sarees in India are named in four ways: after the place they are woven (Banarasi from Varanasi, Kanjeevaram from Kanchipuram, Paithani from Paithan), after the weave (jamdani, ikat), after the way the cloth is dyed, printed or stitched (bandhani, block print, kantha), or simply after the fabric (cotton, linen, chiffon, tissue). There is no fixed count: published lists run from eight to more than seventy, depending on which of these they include. This guide maps the major saree varieties region by region, shows how to recognise each one and tell look-alikes apart, compares them by feel, occasion and rough price, and is clear about which types MAYIN makes: mul cotton, mul modal, Dhakai jamdani, handloom linen, cotton tissue and chiffon.
At a glance
4ways a saree gets its name: place, weave, technique or fabric
35+named types covered in this guide
4regions on the map, plus Kerala on its own
6main fabrics MAYIN makes, for everyday and occasion wear
How Sarees Get Their Names
Most confusion about saree types comes from mixing four kinds of name. A single saree can carry several at once: a Dhakai jamdani is a place (Dhaka), a weave (jamdani) and a fabric (fine cotton muslin) in one.
Four kinds of name, plus drapes
PlaceBanarasi, Kanjeevaram, Paithani, Chanderi, Maheshwari, Sambalpuri. The name tells you where the tradition comes from, and many are GI-registered names tied to that region.
WeaveJamdani, ikat, brocade, tant. The name describes how the loom builds the pattern; the same weave can be done in different places and fibres.
TechniqueBandhani, leheriya, block print, kalamkari, kantha. The pattern is tie-dyed, printed, painted or stitched onto the cloth.
FabricCotton, mul cotton, linen, chiffon, tissue, silk. The name tells you the fibre and finish only, which makes it the most useful word for everyday buying.
DrapeNivi, Bengali, Gujarati, Nauvari, Coorgi. These are ways of wearing a saree, not kinds of saree. See our saree draping styles.
A word on GI, or Geographical Indication: it protects a name tied to a place, such as Kancheepuram silk or Chanderi, for the registered producers of that region. It does not mean every saree sold under the name was woven there, and a listing that says "Banarasi style" is telling you, quietly, that it is not the original.
North and Central India
The north gives India its most famous wedding silk and some of its lightest summer weaves, while Rajasthan adds the great dyeing and printing traditions.
North and Central India
Saree and placeFibreHow to recognise it
BanarasiVaranasi, Uttar PradeshSilk with zari; also cotton and cotton-silk versionsDense zari brocade, small buttas and Mughal-style floral and jaal patterns. In the kadwa technique each motif is woven on its own, leaving a neat back.
ChanderiChanderi, Madhya PradeshSilk-cotton, cotton or silkLight and slightly sheer with a soft sheen, small zari or coloured buttis and a slim border.
MaheshwariMaheshwar, Madhya PradeshSilk warp, cotton weftVery light, with stripes or checks and a reversible border. The tradition is linked to the 18th-century patronage of Ahilyabai Holkar.
Kota DoriaKaithoon, near Kota, RajasthanCotton and silk, roughly 80:20A grid of tiny square checks called khat, almost weightless. Registered weavers weave a GI mark into a corner, so look for it.
BandhaniRajasthan and GujaratCotton, silk and blendsTie-dye: hundreds or thousands of tiny dots, each tied with thread before dyeing. Real bandhani is slightly puckered and the dots have soft, uneven edges.
LeheriyaRajasthanLight cotton or silkDiagonal waves of colour made by rolling and tying the cloth before dyeing. Often worn in the monsoon and for Teej.
Bagru and Sanganeri printsNear Jaipur, RajasthanCottonHand block printing with carved wooden blocks. Bagru is known for earthy dabu (mud-resist) prints; Sanganeri for fine florals on light grounds.
KosaChhattisgarhKosa silk, a wild silkA natural honey-beige tone and a slightly textured, low-shine surface.
Phulkari, the Punjabi embroidery, is mostly worked on dupattas and odhnis rather than sarees. Banarasi, Chanderi, Maheshwari, Kota Doria, Jamnagari bandhani, Bagru and Sanganeri are all GI-registered names. Our hand block print saree guide covers Bagru and Sanganeri in detail; MAYIN’s own block prints are polka dot mul cotton and mul modal sarees such as Crimson Charm and Moonlit Pearl.
Western India
Maharashtra and Gujarat are home to two of the most prized woven sarees in the country, both slow, skilled and expensive when made the traditional way.
Western India
Saree and placeFibreHow to recognise it
PaithaniPaithan and Yeola, MaharashtraSilk and zariPeacock and parrot motifs on a zari pallu. Warp and weft are often in different colours, so the body shifts colour as you move.
Patan PatolaPatan, GujaratSilk, double ikatBoth warp and weft are tie-dyed before weaving, so the pattern is the same on both sides. Bold geometric and floral grids with a slightly blurred edge.
GharcholaGujaratBandhani on a woven gridA grid of zari checks filled with bandhani dots, usually in red, maroon or green. Worn by brides in many Gujarati families.
Sources describe four to six months of work by a team for a single Patan Patola, with prices from around a lakh of rupees. So a ₹1,500 "patola" is a print or a much simpler weave, not a Patan double ikat. Paithani and Patan Patola are both GI-registered names.
The Nauvari, the nine-yard saree of Maharashtra, is a drape rather than a weave, and Paithani is often worn this way at Maharashtrian weddings; our draping styles guide shows how it is tied.
South India
South India runs from the heaviest wedding silk to fine everyday cotton: Tamil Nadu and Karnataka for silk, Telangana for ikat, Andhra Pradesh for fine cottons and kalamkari.
South India
Saree and placeFibreHow to recognise it
KanjeevaramKanchipuram, Tamil NaduHeavy mulberry silk with zariA contrast border and pallu woven separately and interlocked with the body (korvai); look for the join line where the colours meet. Temple borders, checks and a muted, not glittery, zari.
Mysore silkKarnatakaSilkSoft, light and smooth, often a plain body with a narrow gold zari border.
Pochampally ikatTelanganaCotton or silkGeometric motifs with a soft, feathered edge where the tie-dyed threads meet.
GadwalTelanganaCotton body, silk borderA cotton or silk-cotton body joined to a silk border and pallu, often with zari.
NarayanpetTelanganaCotton or silkA checked body with a zari border.
VenkatagiriAndhra PradeshFine cottonFine, light cotton, often with zari borders and small woven motifs.
MangalagiriAndhra PradeshCottonCrisp cotton with a plain body and a zari border, with little or no motif work in the body.
Uppada jamdaniAndhra PradeshLight silkJamdani motifs woven into a light silk ground; India’s GI-registered jamdani.
IlkalBagalkot, KarnatakaCotton body, silk or art-silk borderA cotton body with a contrast border and pallu in silk or art silk.
KalamkariSrikalahasti and Machilipatnam, Andhra PradeshCotton, sometimes silkHand-drawn (Srikalahasti) or block-printed (Machilipatnam) designs in earthy dye tones, often floral or mythological.
Kancheepuram silk, Pochampally ikat, Gadwal, Narayanpet, Venkatagiri, Mangalagiri, Uppada jamdani and Ilkal are all GI-registered names. For everyday wear, Mangalagiri and Venkatagiri are light, breathable cottons, as is MAYIN’s mul cotton. Our guide to types of cotton sarees goes deeper into the regional cottons.
Kerala Sarees: Kasavu and Its Weaving Centres
The famous saree of Kerala is the kasavu saree: an off-white or cream cotton saree with a gold zari border. Kasavu is the Malayalam word for the zari border itself, so the name describes a feature, not a place. The older two-piece form is the mundum neriyathum, or set mundu: a lower cloth and an upper cloth draped over the shoulder. The one-piece version is what most people now call a kasavu or set saree.
Kerala saree varieties are known by weaving centre; all four below are GI-registered names.
Kerala weaving centres
CentreWhat to know
BalaramapuramNear ThiruvananthapuramFine cotton kasavu sarees and fabrics.
KuthampullyThiruvilwamala, ThrissurCotton kasavu sarees from a long-established weaving village.
ChendamangalamNear KochiDhotis and set mundu; look for the puliyilakara, a fine dark line beside the selvedge, and extra-weft chuttikara work.
KasaragodNorth KeralaA Kerala saree that is not a kasavu: coloured cotton sarees rather than cream and gold.
When buying, remember that the border on many festive kasavu sarees today is tested zari, an imitation, which keeps the price sensible; do not assume real gold unless the seller says so. For how to wear one for Onam, with blouse colours and jewellery, read our Onam saree guide and see our Kerala kasavu sarees.
East and North East India
Bengal has a long list of named saree types, and Odisha, Bihar and Assam add some of India’s most distinctive silks and ikats.
West Bengal
West Bengal
Saree and placeFibreHow to recognise it
TantShantipur, Phulia, Dhaniakhali and other clustersCottonLight, crisp cotton with a firm hand, a plain or small-motif body and a wide contrast border. The everyday and puja saree of Bengal.
JamdaniBengal and BangladeshFine cotton muslinMotifs woven in by hand with extra weft threads, so they sit on the surface like embroidery and show on the back too. No print and no needle holes.
BaluchariBishnupur and MurshidabadSilkA pallu woven with framed scenes from the epics and court life.
GaradMurshidabadSilkA white or off-white body, a plain coloured border, often red, and a striped pallu. Worn for pujas in many families.
KorialMurshidabad and BirbhumSilkA white or cream base with a heavy zari border and pallu.
KanthaWest BengalCotton or silk, embroideredRunning-stitch embroidery across the surface, which gives the cloth a slight ripple.
Jamdani is woven in both India and Bangladesh today: Bangladesh holds the GI for jamdani and India’s registered jamdani is Uppada, so "Dhakai" describes the style, not a certificate. MAYIN’s Dhakai jamdani sarees, Lilac Bloom in lavender and Naples in yellow, are fine cotton muslin with woven floral motifs at ₹4,999. If you love the white-and-red puja look of a Garad but want cotton, Kamakshi is white mul cotton with a red border and gold zari at ₹1,799; see the Durga Puja saree guide for more.
Odisha, Bihar and the North East
Odisha, Bihar and the North East
Saree and placeFibreHow to recognise it
SambalpuriWestern OdishaCotton or silk ikat (bandha)Tie-dyed yarn woven into crisp geometric and temple motifs, plus shells, wheels and flowers.
BhagalpuriBhagalpur, BiharTussar silkTextured, low-shine silk in natural beige and gold tones.
MugaAssamMuga silkA natural golden sheen that is not dyed, and that many say grows richer with age.
EriAssamEri silkMatte, soft and warm, with a slightly woolly hand.
Sambalpuri, Bomkai and Khandua are GI-registered names from Odisha. In Assam, the traditional dress in many families is the mekhela chador, worn in two or three pieces, rather than a saree; Muga and Eri are silks that are woven into both.
Comparison Table: Feel, Occasion and Price
Here are the main types side by side. Weight and texture decide comfort far more than the name on the label.
Saree types compared
Saree typesFeel and weightTypical occasions
Banarasi, Kanjeevaram, PaithaniHeavy silk and zari; a structured drapeWeddings, receptions and big festivals; often the bride’s or her mother’s saree
Baluchari, Garad, KorialSilk, medium weightPujas, weddings and family ceremonies, especially in Bengal
Patola, Pochampally, SambalpuriSilk or crisp cotton ikatPatola for weddings and heirlooms; cotton ikats for office and festivals
Chanderi, Maheshwari, Kota DoriaLight, airy, slightly sheerSummer days, office, day functions
Tant, Mangalagiri, Venkatagiri, KasaragodCrisp everyday cottonDaily wear, office, pujas
JamdaniFine, light muslin with woven motifsPujas, office, day weddings, festive lunches
KasavuCream cotton with a gold borderOnam, Vishu, temple visits and weddings in Kerala
Bandhani, leheriya, GharcholaLight cotton or silk, tie-dyedFestivals, Teej, Navratri, Rajasthani and Gujarati weddings
Tussar, Muga, EriTextured or naturally lustrous wild silksFestivals, winter functions, formal events
Mul cotton, linen, chiffon, tissueFabric types, from feather-light to crispEverything from office to party; see the MAYIN section below
Price follows labour, fibre and zari. The bands below are indicative retail prices seen in 2026, not fixed rates, and the same name can sit in several bands depending on how the saree is made.
Rough price bands
Under ₹1,500
Powerloom and printed look-alikesPowerloom or printed copies of Banarasi, Kanjeevaram, patola or ikat designs; not the woven originals.
₹1,500 to ₹5,000
Everyday fabric sarees and light handloomsMul cotton, linen, chiffon, tissue, many tant and handloom cottons, and some light Chanderi. All but one MAYIN saree sit here, from ₹1,699 to ₹4,999; the hand embroidered chiffon Florise is ₹5,599.
₹5,000 to ₹40,000
Handloom silks and fine cotton workMost handloom silks, fine jamdani and kantha work fall in this wide band, depending on zari and hours at the loom.
₹1 lakh and up
Double ikat and heavy bridal silkA Patan Patola starts around here, and heavily worked bridal silks can too.
What Type of Saree Is This? How to Tell Them Apart
If you have a saree in your hands, or a photo on your phone, work through these checks in order. Most sarees reveal their type within the first three.
Six checks, in order
1
Turn it overWoven patterns, from brocade to jamdani to ikat, show on the back as well; prints are paler or missing there.
2
Look at the edge of a motifA feathered, blurred edge means ikat. A raised motif that sits on the surface but has no needle holes is jamdani or brocade. Tiny dots with a soft pucker are bandhani. A repeat with small breaks where blocks meet is hand block print. A perfectly flat, crisp edge is usually a screen or digital print.
3
Check where the border meets the bodyA visible interlocking line where two colours meet suggests a Kanjeevaram-style korvai join. A reversible border on a light, striped or checked silk-cotton points to Maheshwari. A silk border on a cotton body suggests Gadwal or Ilkal.
4
Feel the weight and the sheenHeavy silk with soft-gold zari: Kanjeevaram or Banarasi. Light and sheer: Chanderi or Kota Doria. Crisp cotton: tant or Mangalagiri. Textured and matte: tussar. An all-over metallic shimmer: tissue.
5
Look for the weaver’s handHandloom cloth has small irregularities, a motif not quite identical to the next. Powerloom cloth is perfectly uniform.
6
Read the labelA GI logo, the Handloom Mark or India Handloom Brand label, and the Silk Mark are all verification aids. The Silk Mark tells you the fibre is silk; it is a good sign, not proof of where or how the saree was woven.
Look-alikes
Often confusedHow to tell them apart
Banarasi or KanjeevaramBanarasi leans to Mughal-style florals, jaal and small buttas. Kanjeevaram is heavier, with temple borders, checks and a contrast border interlocked with the body.
Chanderi, Kota Doria or MaheshwariKota Doria has the tiny khat check grid. Maheshwari has stripes or checks and a reversible border. Chanderi has small buttis and a soft sheen.
Woven ikat or printed ikatWoven ikat is blurred on both sides. A printed copy has crisp edges and is paler on the back.
Bandhani or bandhani printReal dots are slightly raised and irregular, and the cloth puckers. Printed dots are flat and evenly spaced.
Jamdani or embroideryJamdani motifs are woven in, with no needle holes. Embroidery sits on top of the cloth and shows stitches on the back.
Tant or mul cottonTant is crisp and holds its shape. Mul cotton is fine, soft and fluid, and falls close to the body.
Before you buy a regional saree
Good signs
✓The seller names the weaving centre or cooperative
✓A GI logo, Handloom Mark or Silk Mark label
✓Small irregularities in the weave
✓Muted, soft-gold zari rather than glitter
Ask more questions
✕"Style", "inspired" or "look" in the name
✕A heavy silk name at a cotton price
✕A pattern pale or missing on the back
✕No mention of fibre or origin
Good to know
Some people burn a thread to check for silk, which smells like burnt hair. If you must try it, snip one loose thread and test it over a sink, well away from the saree; never hold a flame to the saree itself. Our
handloom saree guide explains the handloom marks in more detail.
Which Type for Which Occasion and Climate
Saree types by occasion
Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, PaithaniWeddingsPujas and festivalsEvening parties
Chanderi, Maheshwari, Kota DoriaSummer daysOfficePujas and festivalsWeddings
Tant, Mangalagiri, VenkatagiriSummer daysOfficePujas and festivals
Pochampally and Sambalpuri ikatOfficePujas and festivalsSummer daysWeddings
Bandhani and leheriyaPujas and festivalsSummer daysWeddingsEvening parties
KasavuPujas and festivalsSummer daysOfficeWeddings
JamdaniOfficePujas and festivalsSummer daysWeddings
Mul cotton and mul modalSummer daysOfficePujas and festivals
Handloom linenOfficeSummer daysPujas and festivalsWeddings
Cotton tissuePujas and festivalsWeddingsEvening parties
ChiffonEvening partiesSummer daysOfficePujas and festivalsWeddings
Best fitAlso works A general guide; family custom comes first.
Climate matters as much as the occasion. In humid heat, on the coasts or in a North Indian summer, light cotton, mul cotton, jamdani, linen, Chanderi and Kota Doria are kinder than heavy silk. In a North Indian winter, heavier silks come into their own, and for everyday wear mul modal in deeper colours, layered with a shawl, works better than linen. In the monsoon, choose light fabrics that do not hold water, keep the pallu clear of puddles, and save heavy silk and zari for a dry day.
For particular events, see wedding guest saree looks, party wear saree styling, sarees for a farewell, and trending saree designs for the styles people are choosing now.
The Saree Types MAYIN Makes
We do not weave or sell the regional silks above, and we do not make ikat, bandhani or Banarasi sarees. What we make are everyday and occasion sarees in six main fabric types, each 5.5 m long and 45 inches wide, with any blouse piece in addition. No fall or pico is done.
Six fabric types
FabricWhat it isPrice, blouse and care
Mul cotton (mulmul)Fine, soft, breathable cotton for daily wear and the office, from plain Fairy Tale to the handwoven stripes of Rangam, the zari stripes of Abhira, block-printed Crimson Charm and hand painted Anthuria.₹1,699 to ₹3,499. No blouse piece. Plain, printed, striped and checked: gentle cold hand wash; zari, sequin, embroidered and hand painted: dry clean.
Mul modalA cotton and modal blend with a softer, more fluid fall; breathable and easy to drape. Amber and the block print polka dots of Moonlit Pearl.₹1,899 to ₹2,499. 1 m running blouse piece. Gentle cold hand wash.
Dhakai jamdaniFine cotton muslin with woven floral motifs: Lilac Bloom and Naples.₹4,999. Check the product page for the blouse piece. Dry clean.
Handloom linenCrisp, cool pure handloom linen with zari borders, such as Golden Hour, The Go to and Calm, and the linen tissue Silver.₹4,299. 1 m blouse piece with the linen sarees; for Silver, check the product page for the blouse piece. Dry clean.
Cotton tissueHandloom cotton with a metallic sheen for festive days: Miss Earth is yellow handloom cotton tissue with embroidery and zari.₹3,499. Most of our tissue sarees come with a blouse piece; check the product page. Dry clean.
ChiffonPure chiffon (100% Bemberg) prints such as Liora, Azura and the leheriya print Rouge Waves. Our other chiffons are hand embroidered, like Vintage Wine, or hand painted, like Damask Rose.₹3,399 to ₹5,599. 1 m crepe blouse piece. Dry clean.
A few of these borrow from regional techniques without claiming to be them: our polka dots are hand block printed, and Rouge Waves carries the leheriya wave as a print, not a tie-dye. For help choosing between the fabrics, see our saree fabric guide, mul cotton vs mul modal, what is a linen saree, what is a tissue saree and what is a chiffon saree. Delivery is free across India, we ship internationally, cash on delivery is available, and you can return or exchange within 7 days.
Sarees in This Guide
Shop the sarees in this guide
Lilac BloomLavender Dhakai jamdani, cotton muslinPair with Gold, white, plum
NaplesYellow Dhakai jamdani, cotton muslinPair with Red, white, gold
Miss EarthYellow handloom cotton tissue, embroidery and zariPair with Gold, magenta, green
SilverSilver handloom linen tissuePair with Black, maroon, royal blue
Golden HourMustard handloom linen, zari borderPair with Magenta, gold, bottle green
The Go toIvory handloom linen, zari borderPair with Red, gold, bottle green
RangamWhite handwoven mul cotton, fine stripesPair with Red, black, navy
AbhiraHandloom mul cotton, stripes and zariPair with Pink, purple, gold
Crimson CharmRed block print polka dot mul cottonPair with White, black, gold
AmberPlain yellow mul modalPair with Magenta, white, green
LioraYellow floral print pure chiffonPair with Yellow, gold, pink
Rouge WavesPink and purple leheriya print pure chiffonPair with Pink, purple, gold
KamakshiWhite mul cotton, red border and zariPair with Red, gold, white
Vintage WineHand embroidered floral print chiffonPair with Maroon, gold, beige
Browse all our sarees, or go straight to cotton sarees, jamdani sarees, linen sarees, tissue sarees, chiffon sarees, handloom sarees and traditional sarees. To go deeper, read our handloom saree guide, the guide to types of cotton sarees and what is a Dhakai jamdani saree.
Questions People Ask
How many types of sarees are there in India?
There is no official count. Lists range from eight to more than seventy, depending on whether they count place names, weaves, techniques and fabrics.
Which saree is the most famous in India?
Banarasi and Kanjeevaram are the best known, above all as wedding sarees. For everyday life, cotton in its many regional forms is the saree most people reach for.
Which state is famous for which saree?
Uttar Pradesh for Banarasi, Tamil Nadu for Kanjeevaram, Maharashtra for Paithani, Gujarat for Patola, Madhya Pradesh for Chanderi, Rajasthan for Kota Doria and leheriya, Telangana for Pochampally, Odisha for Sambalpuri, West Bengal for tant and jamdani, Kerala for kasavu, Assam for Muga.
What are the famous sarees of West Bengal?
Tant cotton, jamdani, Baluchari silk with its story pallu, Garad and Korial silks for pujas, and kantha embroidered sarees.
What is the famous saree of Kerala?
The kasavu saree: cream or off-white cotton with a gold zari border, woven in centres such as Balaramapuram, Kuthampully and Chendamangalam.
What is the difference between Banarasi, Kanjeevaram and Chanderi sarees?
Banarasi is silk brocade from Varanasi with Mughal-style florals. Kanjeevaram is heavier silk from Tamil Nadu with an interlocked contrast border. Chanderi is a light, slightly sheer silk-cotton or cotton from Madhya Pradesh.
How do I identify what type of saree this is?
Turn it over to see whether the pattern is woven or printed, look at the motif edges, check where the border meets the body, and feel its weight and sheen.
Which saree is best for summer?
Light cotton such as mul cotton, Chanderi, Kota Doria, Maheshwari, tant or jamdani, or handloom linen.
How can I tell a handloom saree from a powerloom one?
Handloom cloth has small irregularities in the weave and motifs; powerloom cloth is perfectly uniform. The Handloom Mark label helps.
What is the difference between ikat, double ikat and bandhani?
In ikat the yarn is tie-dyed before weaving, either the warp or the weft. In double ikat, such as Patan Patola, both are dyed, so the pattern is the same on both sides. In bandhani the finished cloth is tied and dyed.
Is jamdani from India or Bangladesh?
Both. The craft grew around Dhaka and is woven on both sides of the border today. Bangladesh holds the GI for jamdani, while India’s registered jamdani is Uppada from Andhra Pradesh.
