The types of silk sarees in India start with four silks: mulberry, tussar (also spelt tasar), eri and muga, each spun by a different silkworm on a different food plant. Most famous silk sarees, including Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, Mysore and Paithani, are woven from mulberry silk, while tussar, eri and muga give the textured, matte and golden silks of central, eastern and north-eastern India. This guide covers how each silk is made and feels, the regional silk sarees weave by weave, Silk Mark and labels such as art silk and soft silk, what home tests can and cannot tell you, and zari, price, care and choosing by occasion and climate.
At a glance
4natural silks: mulberry, tussar, eri and muga
2ndIndia’s rank among silk producers; it is the largest consumer
About 1 kmof continuous filament in one mulberry cocoon
2004the year the Silk Mark label was launched
What Silk Is and How It Is Made
Silk is an animal protein fibre, spun by a caterpillar as it wraps itself in a cocoon. Most of the world’s silk comes from the domesticated silkworm, Bombyx mori, which feeds on mulberry leaves. One mulberry cocoon is wound from a single continuous thread of about a kilometre, which is why reeled silk is so smooth and even.
From cocoon to saree
1
RearingMulberry worms are reared indoors on trays; tussar and muga worms feed outdoors on their host trees.
2
Softening the gumIn the conventional process the cocoons are boiled or steamed, which kills the pupa and softens sericin, the gum that holds the cocoon together.
3
ReelingThe filament is unwound, and several are reeled together into one raw silk thread, since a single strand is too fine to weave.
4
Spinning, for open cocoonsWhere the cocoon is pierced or open, the filament is broken, so it is spun like cotton or wool. Spun silk is softer and more matte.
5
WeavingThe yarn is twisted, degummed to bring up its lustre, dyed and woven, by hand or on a power loom.
That one difference, reeled or spun, explains most of what you feel: reeled filament gives the smoothness and deep shine of a wedding silk, spun silk a softer, warmer, more matte cloth. India is the world’s second largest silk producer. Raw silk output rose from about 32,000 tonnes in 2017-18 to nearly 39,000 tonnes in 2023-24, and mulberry is by far the most produced silk in the country.
The Four Silks of India
Indian silk is usually divided into mulberry, from the domesticated worm, and three wild or semi-wild silks often grouped as vanya (forest) silks: tussar, eri and muga. Government figures describe India as the only country producing all five commercial silks, counting tropical and oak tussar separately.
Four silks at a glance
SilkSilkworm and whereFeel and typical use
MulberryBombyx mori, domesticated and reared indoors on mulberry leaves.The smoothest, most even and most lustrous filament; takes any dye. The base of Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, Mysore, Paithani and Dharmavaram.
Tussar (tasar)Antheraea mylitta, reared outdoors on asan and arjun trees in Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, Maharashtra, West Bengal and Andhra Pradesh. Oak tussar comes from the sub-Himalayan belt and the North East.Coarser and textured, with a softer sheen and natural tones from honey gold to copper.
Eri (endi)Samia ricini, fed on castor leaves, in Assam and the North East.The cocoon is open at one end and the moth leaves it, so the silk is spun, not reeled. Matte, soft and warm: chadors, shawls and sarees.
MugaAntheraea assamensis, fed on som and soalu leaves, in Assam only.Naturally golden and usually woven undyed. “Muga Silk of Assam” was registered as a GI in 2007-08.
How each silk feels in the hand
Reeled mulberrySmooth and fluid, with a bright, even lustre and a crisp rustle in heavier weaves.
TussarDry and slightly rough, with visible slubs and a soft gleam rather than a shine.
EriMatte and soft, almost woolly, and warm against the skin.
MugaDense and glossy in its own gold; many say the lustre grows richer with age.
Tussar’s uneven texture is part of its character, not a flaw. Bhagalpur is a place name for tussar weaving, not a word for all tussar; the fibre is woven in several states.
Ahimsa or peace silk
Ahimsa silk, also sold as peace silk, is made by letting the moth leave the cocoon before processing, instead of boiling the pupa inside. The emerging moth breaks the filament, so the silk is spun, softer and more matte, and it costs more. Kusuma Rajaiah, from Hyderabad, is widely credited with developing it from mulberry cocoons. The claims made for it are debated: animal welfare groups point out that domesticated silk moths cannot fly and die soon after emerging, and that other parts of rearing still harm the insects. If this matters to you, ask the seller how the cocoons were handled rather than relying on the label.
Regional Silk Sarees, Weave by Weave
Our guide to the types of sarees in India maps every major saree by region and shows how to tell look-alikes apart. Here we go deeper on silk: which silk each saree uses, what makes the weave distinctive and what its GI, or Geographical Indication, covers. A GI protects a name for the registered producers of a region.
South India
SareeSilk and placeWhat sets it apart
KanjeevaramMulberry silk with zari; Kanchipuram, Tamil NaduBorder and pallu woven separately and interlocked with the body (korvai), so firmly that the border is said to hold even if the body tears. Kancheepuram silk is a registered GI.
DharmavaramMulberry silk; Andhra PradeshBroad brocaded borders and a contrast pallu, joined with the interlocking kuttu technique. A registered GI.
Mysore silkMulberry silk; KarnatakaSmooth, light crepe de chine, also georgette, often plain with a narrow zari border. Woven in Mysore since 1912; the GI, registered in 2004-05, is held by the state-owned maker.
GadwalCotton or silk-cotton (sico) body; TelanganaA silk border and pallu interlocked with the body by hand. GI registered in 2010.
Uppada jamdaniLight silk, also cotton and tussar; Andhra PradeshJamdani motifs inlaid by hand, without dobby or jacquard. The GI, from 2008-09, covers cotton, silk, tussar and blends, so it does not tell you the fibre.
North, West and East India
SareeSilk and placeWhat sets it apart
BanarasiMulberry silk with zari; Varanasi and nearby districtsBrocade with zari and silk motifs, florals, jaal and buttas, on katan (pure silk), kora organza and other bases. “Banaras brocades and sarees” became a GI in 2009.
PaithaniMulberry silk with zari; Paithan and Yeola, MaharashtraA pallu woven almost entirely in zari, its peacock and parrot motifs worked by hand in an interlocking tapestry weave; a registered GI.
Bhagalpur, Champa, GopalpurTussar; Bihar, Chhattisgarh, OdishaTussar’s own honey gold to copper tones, a dry, slubbed hand and a soft gleam. Bhagalpur silk, Champa silk and Gopalpur tussar are all registered GIs.
BaluchariMulberry silk; Bishnupur, West BengalThe pallu tells a story in framed panels of figures from the epics. GI registered in 2011.
Garad and KorialMulberry silk; Murshidabad and Birbhum, West BengalWhite or off-white silks with red or zari borders, worn for pujas in many Bengali families. Both became GIs in January 2024.
For the red and white Bengal silks and how they are worn for Durga Puja, see our Bengali saree look; for the regional cottons and silk-cotton blends, types of cotton sarees.
Kanjeevaram or Banarasi?
The two silks people compare most, usually for a wedding. Neither is better; they are built differently.
Two wedding silks compared
KanjeevaramBanarasi
SilkHeavy mulberry silkMulberry silk on katan, kora organza and other bases
SignatureContrast border and pallu interlocked with the body; temple borders, checksBrocade florals, jaal and buttas, often in dense zari
FeelHeavy and structuredFrom soft katan to light, airy organza
Worn forWeddings and festivals, especially in many South Indian familiesWeddings and receptions, especially in many North Indian families
In heat, weight matters as much as look, so ask the seller for the weight.
Silk Mark, GI and Handloom Labels
Three kinds of label turn up on silk sarees, and each proves something different.
Three labels, three promises
LabelWhat it tells youWhat it does not
Silk MarkThe fibre is 100% natural silk, with zari allowed. The hang tag has a hologram and a unique number tracing the registered seller.Where or how it was woven, whether it is handloom, or what metal is in the zari.
GI name or logoThe name is protected for registered producers of that region.Handloom (the Mysore silk GI filing lists power looms) or a single fibre (Uppada spans several). A GI name in a listing is not proof by itself.
Handloom Mark or India Handloom BrandThe cloth was woven on a handloom; the India Handloom Brand also sets quality standards.That the yarn is silk. Handloom is a claim about the loom, not the fibre.
The Silk Mark was launched in 2004 by the Central Silk Board, under the Ministry of Textiles, and is run by the Silk Mark Organisation of India. Sellers join as Authorised Users and tag each piece. Using it is voluntary, so many genuine silks, especially from small weavers, carry no tag; a missing tag is a reason to ask questions, not proof of a fake. Tags have also been reported reused or copied, so treat the tag and the seller as two pieces of evidence. Our handloom saree guide explains the handloom marks.
Checking a Silk Mark tag
The tag is attached to the saree, not handed over separately.
The hologram is intact and the tag carries a unique number.
The bill names the fibre and, for a regional saree, the weaving centre.
Reading the Label: Pure, Art, Soft and Blended Silk
Silk labels in India are loose. The question to ask every time is simple: what is the fibre, in the warp and in the weft?
A silk label decoder
Pure silkSilk in both warp and weft, with zari allowed. A Silk Mark tag backs the claim.
Silk blendSilk with another fibre. Ask for the percentages.
Cotton silk or sicoSilk and cotton together; Kovai kora, for example, has a kora silk warp and a cotton weft. Lighter and cooler than pure silk.
Art silkArtificial silk: usually viscose rayon, now also polyester, nylon or blends. Not silk, though sometimes sold as silk.
Soft silkA finish or marketing term, not a fibre. It can be pure silk, a blend or art silk.
Semi silk, silk styleNot fibres; usually a blend or art silk. “Kanjeevaram style” means it is not a Kanjeevaram.
KatanTwisted pure silk yarn and the plain silk cloth woven from it; the base of many Banarasis.
KoraSilk yarn or cloth that has not been degummed, so it stays crisp and slightly sheer.
Dupion or raw silkSilk from double cocoons, with slubs that give a crisp, uneven texture. Popular for blouses.
None of these is a quality judgement; what matters is an honest label. For raw silk and cotton silk blouses, see our blouse fabric guide.
How to Tell Pure Silk, and the Limits of Each Test
No single home test settles the question on a finished saree. Each check gives a clue; together, with a tag and an honest bill, they give a fair picture.
Clues to pure silk
CheckWhat you may noticeIts limits
Feel and warmthSilk soon warms to your hand and feels soft and dry rather than slippery or plasticky.Good viscose can feel very close to silk.
LustreMulberry silk has a soft sheen that shifts with the light; polyester often has a glassy shine.Tussar and eri are naturally low-sheen, and finishes change the look.
The reverse sideWoven motifs and borders show on the back as part of the cloth.This shows the weave, not the fibre.
Tag and billA Silk Mark tag and a bill that names the fibre.Tags can be misused; buy from a seller you can go back to.
The burn test, with care
Silk is a protein, so it burns differently. It shrinks from the flame, burns slowly, usually goes out on its own and leaves a black ash that crushes to powder, with a smell like burnt hair. Cotton and rayon burn quickly like paper and leave soft grey ash; polyester and nylon melt into hard beads.
Good to know
A burn test is not conclusive: rayon burns like cotton, blends give mixed results, and one thread may differ from the rest of the saree. It also damages cloth, so never pull, cut or burn a thread from a saree you own, and never test zari. If a seller gives you a loose thread or sample, hold it with tweezers over a sink. Our
zari saree guide explains why zari should never be scraped or burned.
Zari, Weight and Time: What Sets the Price
Two silk sarees with the same name can sit far apart in price. The difference is almost always in five things you can ask about.
Five things behind the price
What you pay forWhy it mattersAn example
FibreReeled mulberry costs more to produce than spun silk, blends or art silk.An art silk version of a famous design costs far less because the fibre itself is different.
Weight of silkHeavier sarees use more yarn and more time.One GI description puts a plain dobby Arani silk at about 300 g and a korvai one at 450 to 600 g.
ZariReal, imitation (often called tested) and metallic zari differ widely in metal and cost.The state-owned Mysore silk maker specifies zari of 65% silver and 0.65% gold for its sarees.
Weave and joinsKorvai and kuttu joins, brocade and double ikat all slow the weaving.A korvai border is woven separately and locked in by hand.
Time at the loomHandloom silk is woven a line at a time.One detailed study of Paithani puts 700 to 800 g of silk and 100 to 250 g of zari into one saree, and three months to about a year at the loom.
Weaving times vary from a couple of weeks for a simpler handloom silk to many months for an elaborate brocade. Silk Mark allows zari, so it says nothing about the metal; ask the seller to describe the zari in writing. Our zari saree guide explains real, tested and metallic zari, and the zari sarees collection shows zari on lighter fabrics.
Caring for a Silk Saree in Indian Weather
Heat, sweat and damp are hard on silk, and most damage happens while it is worn or stored, not in the wash.
Wearing and cleaning
Sweat and deodorantTheir salts weaken and mark silk. Let deodorant and perfume dry before you dress, and consider underarm shields in the blouse.
After wearingAir the saree in the shade before folding. Sunlight fades and yellows silk.
SpillsBlot, do not rub, and do not dab water on a stain; it can leave a ring. Tell the dry cleaner what it is.
CleaningFollow the label; dry clean heavy silks and anything with zari. No chlorine bleach, and never wring.
PressingOn the reverse, at the silk setting, with a pressing cloth; zari on the reverse too.
Storing silk
Wrap each saree in muslin or soft cotton; plastic traps moisture.
Pad the folds with acid-free tissue.
Store flat on a shelf rather than on metal hangers.
Refold along new lines every two to six months (advice varies).
Keep it dark and dry, away from damp walls; a silica gel sachet nearby, not touching the saree, helps in humid months.
Fold lines are where silk and zari wear first. Our guide to crease free saree care covers folding, packing and smoothing creases away from home, and how to wash and store sarees covers everyday fabrics.
Choosing a Silk Saree by Occasion and Climate
In many families silk is the saree for weddings and pujas; that is a custom, not a rule, and it varies by region and community. Beyond custom, the practical questions are how long you will wear it and how warm the day will be.
Which silk for which day
KanjeevaramWeddingsPujas and festivalsWinter evening
BanarasiWeddingsPujas and festivalsWinter evening
PaithaniWeddingsPujas and festivalsWinter evening
Mysore crepePujas and festivalsOffice and formalWeddingsHot, humid dayWinter evening
TussarPujas and festivalsOffice and formalWeddingsWinter evening
Garad and KorialPujas and festivalsWeddings
MugaWeddingsPujas and festivalsOffice and formalWinter evening
EriWinter eveningPujas and festivalsOffice and formal
Silk-cotton weavesPujas and festivalsOffice and formalHot, humid dayWeddings
Best fitAlso works A general guide; family custom comes first.
Heavy korvai and brocade silks are at their best in a cool hall or on a winter evening. In humid heat, or a North Indian summer, a plain Mysore crepe or a silk-cotton blend sits more easily, and many people switch to cotton, linen or breathable chiffon for a long day. In the monsoon, save heavy silk and zari for a dry day.
Match the blouse to the saree’s weight: silk or raw silk with a heavy silk, cotton silk with a lighter one. Our blouse fabric guide goes fabric by fabric, and bangles with a saree covers glass, lac and metal bangles to wear with a silk or a lighter festive saree.
When You Want Shine Without the Weight
For a hot afternoon, a long wedding day or a festival on your feet, MAYIN makes lighter sarees that bring a fluid fall or a festive shine in fabrics kinder to Indian weather.
Lighter MAYIN sarees with a festive finish
Gold sequin pure chiffon
Red, green, royal blue, gold
Mukaish for a softer sparkle
Pink
Showtime is pink pure chiffon with mukaish work, for receptions and festive evenings.
Printed pure chiffon
Yellow, royal blue
Zari borders on linen
Maroon, pink
Cotton tissue
Yellow
Miss Earth is yellow handloom cotton tissue with embroidery and zari. Tissue is semi-sheer, so match the petticoat to the saree or the zari. See
what is a tissue saree.
Zari stripes and soft drapes
Red, pink, white
Manjari is red striped mul cotton with zari, for pujas. For everyday ease,
Mauve Melody is breathable pink mul modal with a 1 m running blouse piece, and
Bright Side is white mul cotton for the hottest days.
Every MAYIN saree is 5.5 m long, with any blouse piece extra. Dry clean the chiffon, linen, tissue and zari sarees, and gently hand wash plain mul modal and mul cotton in cold water. Our designer saree guide covers embellished sarees on lighter grounds.
Sarees in This Guide
Shop light sarees with a festive finish
EmeraldGreen pure chiffon, hand embroidered gold sequin rosesPair with Gold, bottle green, ivory
RubyRed pure chiffon, hand embroidered gold sequin rosesPair with Gold, red, maroon
SapphireRoyal blue pure chiffon, hand embroidered gold sequin rosesPair with Gold, royal blue, ivory
ShowtimePink pure chiffon, mukaish workPair with Pink, gold, ivory
LioraYellow floral print pure chiffonPair with Yellow, gold, pink
AzuraRoyal blue floral print pure chiffonPair with Royal blue, silver, white
Main EventMaroon red handloom linen, zari borderPair with Gold, maroon, ivory
ComposurePink handloom linen, zari borderPair with Pink, gold, maroon
Miss EarthYellow handloom cotton tissue, embroidery and zariPair with Gold, magenta, green
ManjariRed striped mul cotton with zariPair with Red, gold, white
Browse festive wear sarees and wedding sarees for occasions, chiffon, linen and tissue sarees by fabric, or all our sarees. To go further, read the types of sarees in India, the handloom saree guide and the zari saree guide. We ship across India and internationally, with cash on delivery and returns or exchange within 7 days.
Questions People Ask
What are the types of silk sarees in India?
By fibre: mulberry, tussar, eri and muga. By place and weave, the best known include Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, Mysore, Paithani, Dharmavaram, Uppada, Gadwal, Baluchari, Garad, Korial and Bhagalpur tussar.
Which silk saree is best for a wedding?
Kanjeevaram, Banarasi and Paithani are the classic wedding silks, and the choice often follows family custom. For a long, hot day, a lighter silk or a light fabric with zari or sequins is easier to wear.
Kanjeevaram or Banarasi: which is better?
Neither; they differ. Kanjeevaram is heavier mulberry silk with an interlocked contrast border; Banarasi is brocade on bases from katan to light organza.
How can I identify a pure silk saree?
Look for a Silk Mark tag and a bill naming the fibre, then use feel, lustre and the reverse as clues. Home tests are not conclusive, and a burn test belongs only on a loose thread from the seller.
What is Silk Mark?
A label launched in 2004 by the Central Silk Board certifying 100% natural silk. Check for an intact hologram and unique number; it does not certify handloom, origin or zari.
What is the difference between pure silk and art silk?
Pure silk is a natural protein fibre from silkworms. Art silk is artificial silk, usually viscose rayon or a synthetic, made to look like silk.
Is soft silk pure silk?
Not necessarily. Soft silk describes a finish, not a fibre, so check the fibre on the label.
Is tussar pure silk?
Yes, tussar is a natural silk from a wild silkworm, textured and less lustrous than mulberry. Tussar sarees can also be blended, so read the label.
What is ahimsa silk?
Silk made by letting the moth leave the cocoon before processing, then spinning the broken filament. Whether it is truly harmless is debated.
Can silk sarees be worn in summer?
Light silks such as Mysore crepe or silk-cotton weaves can be. Heavy wedding silks are warm in humid heat, so many people keep them for cool evenings.
How do I wash and store a silk saree?
Follow the care label and dry clean heavy silks and any with zari. Store it folded in muslin, not plastic, with acid-free tissue in the folds, and refold every few months.
